Khiva's Itchan Kala: A Walled City Inside the Desert

Khiva feels like a city from a story. Its inner town, Itchan Kala, is enclosed by thick mud-brick walls and packed with madrasahs, minarets and palaces. It was the first site in Uzbekistan to be inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List, in 1990.

The essential sights

• Kalta Minor: a short, wide minaret covered in turquoise tiles, left unfinished in the 19th century and now Khiva's symbol.
• Islam Khodja Minaret: the tallest in Khiva. Climb it for a view across the whole walled city.
• Juma Mosque: a dim, quiet hall supported by over two hundred carved wooden columns, some centuries old.
• Tash-Hauli Palace: the khan's residence, with richly tiled courtyards and a harem.
• Kunya-Ark: the old fortress, with a watchtower over the West Gate.
• Pahlavon Mahmud Mausoleum: the tomb of Khiva's patron saint, with some of the city's finest tilework.

The best time of day

Itchan Kala is small enough to walk in a few hours, but its mood changes completely with the light. Early morning is cool and empty. Late afternoon turns the walls gold, and sunset from the ramparts is one of the great moments of any Uzbekistan journey.

Stay overnight inside or right next to the walls. After the day visitors leave, Khiva becomes quiet and magical, and you have the lanes almost to yourself.

Beyond the walls

Khiva is also the gateway to the desert fortresses of ancient Khorezm, such as Ayaz-Kala and Toprak-Kala, in neighbouring Karakalpakstan. A half-day or full-day excursion adds a sense of the vast landscape around the oasis.

Getting there

Since 2026 a high-speed train reaches Khiva from Tashkent via Samarkand and Bukhara. The Bukhara to Khiva leg now takes a little over three hours. Domestic flights to Urgench, about 30 minutes from Khiva, remain a good option for the return.

How long to stay

We recommend two nights: one full day for Itchan Kala at a relaxed pace and one for the desert fortresses or a slower morning. One night is possible, but travellers almost always wish they had stayed longer.